Sunglasses Through the Ages: A Journey of Style, Function, and Fashion
Sunglasses have been a staple accessory in fashion and everyday life for decades. They serve a practical purpose by protecting our eyes from the sun’s harmful UV rays, and have the power to elevate any outfit and make a bold fashion statement.
This comprehensive article will explore the history, styles and designs, the importance of UV protection, and how to choose the perfect pair for your face shape and personal style.
The History of Sunglasses
The history is a fascinating journey that spans thousands of years, with various civilisations finding innovative ways to protect their eyes from the sun’s glare.
Early Days: Inuit Innovation
In the Arctic region, the Inuit people, who have lived in harsh, snowy conditions for generations, developed a unique solution to combat the blinding glare of the sun reflecting off the snow and ice. They crafted makeshift “sunglasses” by flattening walrus ivory and creating narrow slits in the material.
These ivory shades were worn close to the face, reducing the sunlight that entered the eyes and improving visibility in the bright, snowy landscape. This ingenious invention protected their eyes from the sun’s rays and helped prevent snow blindness, a painful condition caused by prolonged exposure to UV radiation reflecting off the snow.
Far-east Origins: Song Dynasty

In 12th-century China, sunglasses took on a different purpose. During the Song Dynasty, judges in Chinese courts wore smoke-coloured quartz lenses to conceal their facial expressions while questioning witnesses and delivering verdicts. These lenses were not primarily used for sun protection but to maintain an air of impartiality and detachment, ensuring that the judges’ emotions did not influence their decisions.
The smoke-coloured quartz lenses obscured the judges’ eyes, making it difficult for others to read their expressions and discern their thoughts. This early use of tinted lenses in a legal setting demonstrates how they’ve been adapted for various purposes beyond sun protection throughout history.
Interestingly, while the Inuit people and ancient Chinese judges used them for different reasons, both highlight this accessory's versatility and practicality. The Inuit's ivory shades responded to the unique environmental challenges they faced. At the same time, the Chinese judges' smoke-coloured lenses served a social and professional function within the court system.
18th Century: Tinted Innovation

In the 18th century, their development took a significant leap forward thanks to the work of James Ayscough, an English optician. Ayscough began experimenting with tinted lenses in spectacles, marking a departure from the clear lenses used until that point. He believed that using coloured glass, particularly in shades of blue or green, could help correct specific vision impairments and alleviate discomfort associated with certain eye conditions.
Ayscough’s experiments with tinted lenses were groundbreaking for the time, as they demonstrated the potential for coloured glass to serve a corrective and therapeutic purpose. His work laid the foundation for further research and development in optometry, paving the way for the eventual widespread use of tinted lenses.
However, it wasn’t until the early 20th century, they gained popularity and became more widely accessible to the public. This was mainly due to the introduction of mass-produced celluloid frames and lenses, which revolutionised the eyewear industry.
Celluloid, a synthetic plastic material, was first invented in the late 19th century and quickly gained popularity due to its versatility, durability, and affordability. In the early 1900s, manufacturers began using celluloid to produce eyeglass frames and lenses on a larger scale, making them more readily available and affordable for the average consumer.
Using celluloid in production was a game-changer, as it created lighter, more comfortable, and more stylish frames compared to the heavy, cumbersome materials used in earlier designs. Additionally, celluloid lenses could be easily tinted in various colours and shades, offering wearers a more comprehensive range of options for sun protection and style.
The mass production of celluloid frames and lenses also made them more affordable and accessible to a broader audience. As a result, they began to be seen not just as a practical necessity but also as a fashionable accessory.The increased availability and affordability in the early 20th century laid the groundwork for their eventual rise as a staple fashion item and a symbol of popular culture.
The work of James Ayscough in the 18th century and the introduction of mass-produced celluloid frames and lenses in the early 20th century were pivotal moments. Ayscough’s experiments with tinted lenses opened up new possibilities for the therapeutic and corrective use of coloured glass. At the same time, the advent of celluloid manufacturing made them more practical, stylish, and accessible to the masses.
These developments set the stage for sunglasses' continued evolution and popularity throughout the 20th century and beyond, cementing their status as an essential fashion and function accessory.

1920s and 1930s: Fashion Genesis
The 1920s and 1930s witnessed a remarkable transformation in their role, shifting from a mere practical necessity to a powerful fashion statement. This evolution was largely influenced by the burgeoning Hollywood scene and the captivating allure of movie stars and celebrities of that era.
In the early days of cinema, actors and actresses often struggled with the bright lights used on movie sets, which could cause discomfort and strain their eyes. To alleviate this problem, many stars began wearing them between takes to protect their eyes and maintain a sense of mystique and allure.
With the rise of Hollywood’s popularity, the public’s fascination with the lives of movie stars and celebrities grew exponentially. Fans and paparazzi would often gather outside movie studios and popular hangouts, hoping to catch a glimpse of their beloved stars. In response, many celebrities turned to them as a shield, a tool to maintain their privacy and anonymity in public.
This trend quickly caught on, and sunglasses became an essential accessory for anyone looking to emulate the style and sophistication of Hollywood’s elite. Stars like Gloria Swanson, Anna May Wong, and Marlene Dietrich were often photographed wearing them, further cementing their status as a must-have fashion item.
Their popularity among celebrities coincided with the emergence of new fashion trends and subcultures during this period. The 1920s saw the rise of the ‘flapper’ style, characterised by its bold, streamlined fashion and rejection of traditional gender roles. With their sleek, modern design, they became a perfect embodiment of this new aesthetic, influencing and shaping societal norms.
Similarly, in the 1930s, the Art Deco movement influenced fashion and design, emphasising geometric shapes, bold colours, and sleek, streamlined forms. Designs during this period often incorporated these elements with angular frames and embellishments that reflected the Art Deco style, such as the use of gold and silver metals, and intricate geometric patterns.
The association between sunglasses and celebrity culture continued to grow throughout the 20th century, with iconic figures like James Dean, Audrey Hepburn, and John Lennon known for their signature styles. James Dean’s iconic look was often completed with a pair of wayfarers, while Audrey Hepburn’s cat-eye glasses became a symbol of femininity and elegance.
John Lennon’s round, wire-framed styles, on the other hand, became synonymous with the counterculture movement of the 1960s. This enduring link between sunglasses and fame has helped to establish them as a timeless fashion accessory, with new styles and trends emerging each season.
The 1920s and 1930s were a pivotal period in the history of sunglasses, as they cemented their status as a fashion accessory and laid the foundation for their enduring popularity. The rise of Hollywood, the influence of celebrity culture, and the emergence of new fashion trends all contributed to their growing prominence during this era, setting the stage for their continued evolution and significance in the decades to come.

The 1940s and 1950s: War/Post-war Innovation
During World War II, sunglasses transcended their fashion status. They emerged as a pivotal tool for military personnel, notably pilots and sailors, who braved intense sunlight and glare during their missions. The U.S. Army Air Corps, in a moment of profound foresight, acknowledged the necessity for tailored eyewear. This recognition protected their aviators’ eyes and elevated their visual performance in the face of challenging conditions.
In response to this need, the U.S. Army Air Corps commissioned Bausch & Lomb, a renowned optical manufacturer known for its innovative designs and high-quality products, to develop a new type specifically designed for aviators. The collaboration between the military and Bausch & Lomb created the iconic Ray-Ban Aviator sunglasses.
The Ray-Ban Aviators boasted a myriad of pioneering design elements that revolutionised the industry. Among these, the most notable was the incorporation of dark green lenses. These lenses, designed to shield against the sun’s rays and minimize glare, offered unparalleled precision and unobstructed vision. The choice of green was not arbitrary; it was believed to provide the optimal contrast and clarity for pilots, aiding in the distinction between standard sky and ground colours.
In addition to the green lenses, the Ray-Ban Aviators also featured a unique frame design that was both functional and stylish. The frames were meticulously crafted from lightweight metal, a material chosen for its durability and comfort. The large, teardrop-shaped lenses were carefully positioned to provide a wider field of vision than previous designs. This was particularly important for pilots, who needed to always have a clear view of their surroundings.
The Ray-Ban Aviators quickly gained popularity among military personnel, who appreciated their superior protection and performance. Pilots and sailors alike found that they helped reduce eye strain and fatigue during long missions, improving their overall visual acuity. For instance, many pilots reported that they could spot enemy aircraft more quickly and accurately with the help of these aviator sunglasses.
As the war came to an end, the popularity of Ray-Ban Aviators began to spread beyond the military. Returning soldiers brought their beloved sunglasses back home with them, and the style soon caught on with civilians as well. The rugged, masculine look of the Aviators, combined with their association with the bravery and heroism of military pilots, made them a sought-after accessory for men and women alike.
