The History of Sunglasses: A UK Guide

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Squinting into the bright, unpredictable light of a British summer’s day is a national pastime. One minute it’s grey and overcast, the next you’re dazzled by a sudden burst of sunshine. It’s in that moment you reach for them: your trusty sunglasses. But have you ever stopped to think about the journey that simple object has taken to get to your face? It’s a story that spans thousands of years, involving Roman emperors, Arctic explorers, London inventors, and rock and roll superstars.

This isn’t just a story about fashion. It’s a tale of science, war, rebellion, and art, all wrapped up in an accessory that has the power to change how we see the world, and how the world sees us. So, let’s take a journey through time and discover how sunglasses became the perfect blend of cool, clever, and crucial.

The Ancient World: Shielding Eyes Before ‘Sunglasses’ Existed

Long before Ray-Ban or Oakley, people were figuring out ways to shield their eyes from the sun’s blinding glare. The solutions were ingenious, even if they weren’t exactly sunglasses as we know them.

The Emperor’s Emeralds and Chinese Courts

Our story begins, as so many do, in ancient Rome. It’s said the infamous Emperor Nero used to watch gladiatorial contests through a polished green emerald. It wouldn’t have offered any UV protection, of course, but holding the smooth, cool gem to his eye likely reduced the sun’s glare, making the bloody spectacle a little easier to watch.

Meanwhile, over in 12th-century China, judges were using a different kind of eyewear for a very different reason. They wore spectacles made from flat panes of smoked quartz. The goal wasn’t to block the sun, but to hide their eyes in court. By keeping their expressions a secret, they could appear impartial while questioning witnesses. It was the first time eyewear was used to create a mask, a psychological barrier—an idea that would become central to the appeal of sunglasses centuries later.

The First True Glare Protection: Inuit Snow Goggles

For the first truly functional sun-shielding device, we have to travel to the frozen landscapes of the Arctic. For thousands of years, the Inuit people have crafted ‘snow goggles’ to prevent a painful condition called snow blindness, caused by the sun’s intense glare reflecting off vast plains of snow and ice.

These weren’t glasses with lenses. Instead, they were carved from materials like walrus ivory, bone, or wood, and made to fit snugly against the face. A narrow horizontal slit was cut across the front. This simple but brilliant design drastically reduced the amount of light hitting the eye, allowing hunters to see clearly and safely in the brightest conditions. They were a tool for survival, a perfect example of function over form.

The Enlightenment: A Glimmer of an Idea in 18th Century London

For centuries, the idea of tinted lenses didn’t progress much further. But in the mid-18th century, a London-based optician named James Ayscough began tinkering with an idea that would change everything. Around 1752, Ayscough, a respected designer of scientific instruments like microscopes, started experimenting with tinted lenses in spectacles.

He believed that lenses tinted green or blue could help correct certain vision problems. In his writings, he explained that white light could be “offensive to the Eyes” and that coloured glass could reduce the glare. Crucially, Ayscough wasn’t trying to create sunglasses. His goal was to improve vision for people with light sensitivity or other optical ailments. He had no concept of invisible ultraviolet (UV) rays. Still, he was the first person to suggest that putting coloured tints in lenses could have benefits, planting a seed that would blossom two centuries later.

From Niche Cure to Everyday Wear: The 20th Century Boom

For the next 150 years, tinted glasses remained a specialist item, occasionally prescribed by doctors for specific conditions. But in the early 20th century, two very different developments would unexpectedly push them into the mainstream.

A Curious Medical Driver

One of the most common reasons for light sensitivity in the late 19th and early 20th centuries was, surprisingly, syphilis. The disease was widespread, and some of the treatments involved mercury, which had side effects that included making patients’ eyes painfully sensitive to light. Doctors began prescribing amber and brown-tinted spectacles to help them cope.

Sam Foster and the Birth of a Seaside Staple

The real turning point came in 1929, across the pond in America. An entrepreneur named Sam Foster, who had made his fortune in plastic hair combs, saw a new opportunity. He realised he could use the same plastic injection-moulding techniques to mass-produce cheap and cheerful sunglasses.

He set up shop on the boardwalks of Atlantic City, New Jersey, selling his ‘Foster Grants’ to the growing crowds of holidaymakers. For the first time, sunglasses were available to everyone, not just as a medical aid but as a fun accessory for a day at the seaside. The age of sunglasses as fashion had begun, and it wasn’t long before Hollywood stars were spotted wearing them, adding a touch of glamour and mystery.

The Scientific Leap: Seeing Clearly and Staying Safe

While Foster was making sunglasses fashionable, a scientific revolution was happening in the background that would make them functional in ways James Ayscough could never have dreamed of.

Edwin Land and the Magic of Polarisation

Anyone who has worn a good pair of polarised sunglasses knows the ‘wow’ moment when you put them on. Suddenly, the blinding glare bouncing off a wet road or the surface of the sea vanishes. The world looks sharper, clearer, and more colourful. For that, we have Edwin Land to thank. In 1936, this brilliant American scientist invented the Polaroid filter.

So, how does it work? Think of glare as ‘messy’ horizontal light waves bouncing off surfaces. Your polarised lenses have a special chemical filter laminated onto them with molecules that are all lined up vertically. This vertical pattern acts like a Venetian blind, blocking all the horizontal light waves from passing through to your eye. Only the ‘good’ vertical light gets through, which is why everything looks so crisp. Land’s invention was a game-changer for drivers, fishermen, skiers, and anyone who spent time outdoors.

Understanding UV Protection: Why It’s Not Just About a Dark Lens

For years, people assumed that the darker the lens, the better the protection. But science taught us that the real danger from the sun is invisible: ultraviolet (UV) radiation. There are two main types that reach us: UVA, which ages our skin, and UVB, which burns it. Both can seriously damage our eyes over time, contributing to cataracts and other conditions.

A dark lens without a proper UV filter is actually worse than no sunglasses at all. Why? Because the dark tint makes your pupils open wider, letting more harmful UV radiation flood into your eye.

That’s why it’s so important to buy sunglasses from a reputable source. In the UK, you should always look for the CE mark or the newer post-Brexit UKCA mark. These labels guarantee that the sunglasses meet strict safety standards and provide proper protection, usually labelled as UV400, which blocks virtually all UVA and UVB rays.

How War Forged an Icon: The Ray-Ban Aviator

One of the most recognisable sunglass styles in history wasn’t born on a catwalk, but in the cockpit of a fighter plane. In the 1930s, as aircraft flew higher and faster than ever before, US Army Air Corps pilots were running into a problem. At high altitudes, the intense, unfiltered glare and blue of the sky were giving them terrible headaches and altitude sickness.

They turned to a medical equipment company, Bausch & Lomb, for a solution. The company developed a new kind of goggle with large, slightly curved lenses designed to cover the entire field of vision. The lenses were tinted a specific shade of green to cut glare without distorting colours. The frame was made of a lightweight metal that could be worn comfortably under a helmet.

They were a huge success. Patented in 1937 under a catchy new brand name—Ray-Ban, because they ‘banned’ the sun’s rays—the style was officially known as the ‘Anti-Glare’. We know it today as the Aviator. When photos of heroic pilots wearing them appeared in newspapers, the public wanted them too. The Aviator made the leap from military equipment to a timeless symbol of adventure and cool.

Hollywood’s Helping Hand: Making Sunglasses a Symbol of Stardom

If the military made sunglasses tough, Hollywood made them impossibly cool. They became the ultimate prop for creating an aura of mystique, glamour, and rebellion.

A New Era of Design: The Wayfarer

For decades, sunglass frames were mostly made of thin metal wire. But in 1956, Ray-Ban launched something completely different: the Wayfarer. Using the new plastic moulding technologies that Sam Foster had pioneered, designer Raymond Stegeman created a bold, chunky, trapezoidal frame. It was a radical departure.

The Wayfarer quickly became the unofficial eyewear of rebellion. When James Dean wore a similar style in Rebel Without a Cause, it cemented the link between sunglasses and youthful defiance. They weren’t just for blocking the sun anymore; they were for making a statement.

The Ultimate Accessory for Anonymity and Allure

For movie stars, sunglasses were a double-edged sword. They offered a shield from the flashbulbs of the paparazzi and the prying eyes of the public, allowing a degree of privacy. But they also added to their mystique. Think of Audrey Hepburn peering over her oversized Oliver Goldsmith frames in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Her sunglasses are as central to her character’s chic, enigmatic personality as her little black dress. They suggested she had secrets, that she was both present and hidden at the same time.

Swinging London: When Britain Set the Trend

In the 1960s, the centre of the cultural universe shifted to London. On Carnaby Street and the King’s Road, a fashion and music revolution was underway, and eyewear was right at the heart of it. The subtle, classic styles of the 50s were tossed aside in favour of frames that were big, bold, and bursting with creativity.

The 1960s Fashion Revolution

This was the era of experimentation. Sunglasses came in all shapes and sizes: huge circles, squares, octagons, and hearts. Frames were made from brightly coloured plastic, and lenses were tinted in psychedelic shades of pink, yellow, and blue. They were designed to be noticed. For the first time, people owned multiple pairs of sunglasses, choosing a style to match their outfit or their mood.

The Faces of the Era

The style was defined by its icons. No one did more to popularise round glasses than John Lennon. His signature wire-rimmed ‘teashades’ started as a standard-issue NHS prescription pair before becoming a symbol of the peace movement and his artistic identity.

Supermodel Twiggy was often photographed in huge, doll-like sunglasses that emphasised her wide eyes and pixie haircut. And then there was Elton John. His journey into the world’s most famous eyewear collector began in the 60s, laying the groundwork for the thousands of flamboyant, custom-made glasses that would become his trademark. Behind many of these iconic looks were brilliant British designers like Oliver Goldsmith, whose family firm created daring, sculptural frames for everyone from Princess Grace of Monaco to Michael Caine.

Decades of Style: From Big and Bold to Small and Subtle

After the explosion of the 60s, sunglass trends continued to evolve, often influenced by film and music.

The 1970s: Gradient Lenses and Softer Shapes

The 70s kept the oversized look but softened the edges. Large, rounded frames with gradient lenses—dark at the top, fading to light at the bottom—were hugely popular, complementing the decade’s flowing hair and flared trousers.

The 1980s: The Blockbuster Revival

The 80s were all about the power of Hollywood. In 1986, Top Gun was released, and every man wanted to be Tom Cruise’s character, Maverick. Sales of Ray-Ban Aviators shot up by 40%. A few years earlier, Tom Cruise had also revived the Wayfarer by dancing around in his pants in Risky Business (1983). The style was also cemented as the epitome of cool by The Blues Brothers in their 1980 film. Sunglasses were once again a box office smash.

The 1990s: Britpop and Minimalism

The pendulum swung back in the 90s. The oversized frames of the 70s and 80s were replaced with much smaller, more subtle designs. Oval and rectangular shapes with thin metal or minimalist plastic frames became the norm. In Britain, the look was defined by the Britpop movement. Liam Gallagher of Oasis was rarely seen without his signature roundish sunglasses, often with coloured lenses, giving off an air of detached, rock-and-roll swagger.

Sunglasses in the 21st Century: Where We Are Now

Today, the world of sunglasses is more diverse than ever. Decades of styles exist side-by-side, driven by a fashion cycle that endlessly revives and reinvents the past.

The Fashion Cycle: What Goes Around, Comes Around

The tiny, sharp frames of the 90s have made a comeback, as have the enormous, face-shielding styles of the 70s. The classics—Aviators, Wayfarers, and Clubmasters—have never left. This means there’s more choice than ever before, allowing people to pick a style that truly reflects their personality.

Technology in Your Tint

The technology inside our sunglasses continues to advance. Smart glasses, once the stuff of science fiction, are now a reality. Brands like Ray-Ban and Meta offer frames with built-in speakers for listening to music, microphones for taking calls, and even tiny cameras for capturing photos and videos. Lens technology has also improved, with better scratch-resistant coatings and photochromic lenses that automatically darken in the sun.

A Greener Shade: The Rise of Sustainable Eyewear

As we all become more environmentally conscious, the eyewear industry is responding. A growing number of independent brands are now making frames from sustainable materials. You can find sunglasses made from recycled ocean plastic, sustainably sourced wood and bamboo, and even innovative bio-acetates derived from cotton or wood pulp.

Your Practical Guide to Buying Sunglasses in the UK

With so much choice, how do you find the right pair? Here are a few quick tips:

Face Shape: A general rule of thumb is to go for a frame shape that contrasts with your face shape. Round faces often suit angular frames (like Wayfarers), while square faces can be softened by rounder frames (like Aviators). Oval faces are lucky—almost any style works!
Check the Mark: Always, always look for the UKCA or CE mark. It’s your guarantee of proper UV protection.
Year-Round Wear: Don’t just save them for summer holidays. UV rays can damage your eyes even on cloudy days, and winter sun, especially when combined with snow or wet roads, can create a lot of glare.

Conclusion: A Timeless Blend of Form and Function

The journey of sunglasses is remarkable. They have evolved from a Roman emperor’s polished gem into a high-tech smart device. They have been a tool for survival in the Arctic, a medical aid in 18th-century London, a piece of essential kit for fighter pilots, and a symbol of rebellion for movie stars.

They are one of the few objects we own that are both a vital piece of health equipment and a powerful fashion statement. They protect our most precious sense while allowing us to shape our identity and project an image to the world. Whether you wear them to see, to be seen, or not to be seen, sunglasses are a timeless, fascinating, and indispensable part of our lives.