The Burberry Trench Coat: A British Icon

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It’s more than just a coat. It’s a piece of British history you can wear. It’s seen action in the trenches of the First World War, graced the silver screen on Hollywood legends, and pounded the pavements of London on everyone from rock stars to royalty. We’re talking, of course, about the Burberry trench coat.

That simple, elegant silhouette in honey-coloured gabardine is instantly recognisable. It’s a symbol of timeless style, quiet luxury, and a certain stoic Britishness. But how did this humble raincoat become one of the most famous garments in the world? It’s a story that involves a clever draper’s apprentice, a revolutionary fabric, two world wars, and a dash of Hollywood magic.

This isn’t just a story about fashion; it’s about innovation, identity, and how a practical piece of outerwear wove itself into the very fabric of British culture. So, grab a cuppa, settle in, and let’s unravel the tale of the Burberry trench coat, from its muddy beginnings to its modern-day glory. We’ll look at the man who started it all, the genius of its design, and why, over 100 years later, it remains the undisputed king of coats.

The Man and the Material: Thomas Burberry’s Stroke of Genius

Our story starts not in a fancy London design studio, but in the Hampshire town of Basingstoke. In 1856, a 21-year-old former draper’s apprentice named Thomas Burberry opened a small outfitter’s shop. He was a practical man, and he noticed that the rural folk of Hampshire – the farmers, fishermen, and outdoorsmen – needed better protection from the notoriously damp British weather.

At the time, rainwear was heavy, hot, and uncomfortable. Coats were often made from rubberised fabrics that, while waterproof, didn’t let air escape. You might stay dry from the rain, but you’d be soaking from your own sweat. It was, to put it mildly, a bit grim.

Thomas Burberry knew there had to be a better way.

What is Gabardine? A Truly British Invention

The breakthrough came in 1879. Burberry invented a new fabric he called gabardine. The name was inspired by a line in Shakespeare’s The Tempest, where Caliban speaks of hiding from the storm under his “gaberdine”.

The genius of gabardine wasn’t a coating or a treatment; it was all in the weave. Burberry created a tightly woven fabric from fine cotton yarn. Before being woven, each individual strand was waterproofed. The final fabric was then woven in a twill pattern, which made it incredibly dense and weather-resistant.

Think of it like this: imagine trying to push water through a very, very fine sieve. That’s essentially the principle of gabardine. Raindrops were too large to penetrate the tiny gaps in the weave, so they simply beaded up and rolled off. But at the same time, the fabric could still ‘breathe’, allowing air to circulate and body heat to escape.

It was revolutionary. Here was a fabric that was:

Weatherproof: It kept the wind and rain out.
Breathable: It was comfortable to wear, even when you were active.
Durable: The tight weave made it tough and tear-resistant.
Lightweight: Compared to the heavy waxed or rubber coats of the era, it was a dream to wear.

Burberry patented gabardine in 1888, and it quickly became the go-to material for anyone who needed to stay dry and comfortable outdoors. Explorers, aviators, and adventurers all swore by it. The Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen wore Burberry gabardine when he became the first person to reach the South Pole in 1911. So did Ernest Shackleton on his Antarctic expeditions. They chose it because it worked. It was gear, not just clothing.

This focus on function and performance is the absolute foundation of the Burberry trench coat. It wasn’t designed to be a fashion statement. It was designed to do a job, and it did it brilliantly.

From the Front Line to High Fashion: The Birth of the Trench Coat

The coat we now know and love truly earned its stripes – and its name – in the theatre of war. With the outbreak of the First World War in 1914, the British military needed a more practical and modern uniform for its officers. The heavy greatcoats they were issued were totally unsuitable for the grim reality of trench warfare. They were long, cumbersome, and became waterlogged with mud, weighing the soldiers down.

Designed for a Purpose: The Anatomy of a Trench Coat

Burberry, along with its rival Aquascutum, had already been making coats for Army officers. They adapted their existing designs to meet the specific needs of the conflict. The War Office officially commissioned a new design, and the “trench coat” was born. Every single feature of the coat had a practical, military purpose.

Let’s break down the key elements you still see on a Burberry trench today:

The Epaulettes: Those straps on the shoulders weren’t just for show. They were used to secure an officer’s rank insignia, gloves, or whistle.
The Gun Flap: The extra flap of fabric that buttons down on one side of the chest (usually the right) provided another layer of protection. It stopped rainwater from running down the coat and into a rifle held underneath.
The D-Rings: The metal rings on the belt were originally designed for hanging military equipment, such as map cases, swords, or grenades. (Definitely not for your keys and phone like today!)
The Storm Shield: The cape-like flap across the back and shoulders was designed to let water run cleanly off the coat without soaking the wearer’s back.
The Hook and Eye Collar: The metal clasp at the neck allowed the collar to be fastened tightly, protecting the wearer from wind and rain.
The Belted Cuffs: The straps on the sleeves could be tightened to stop water from running down the arms when using binoculars.

The coat was also shorter than the old greatcoats, making it easier for officers to move quickly through the mud-filled trenches. The colour, a khaki or honey shade, provided effective camouflage.

It was a masterpiece of functional design. Officers often bought their own trench coats privately, and they became a symbol of status and rank. They were a sign that you were on the front line, facing the enemy. When the war ended, the veterans brought their trusted coats home with them, and the trench coat’s journey into civilian life began.

Hollywood’s Love Affair: How the Trench Coat Became Cool

After the war, the trench coat’s reputation for toughness and style made it popular with the public. But it was the golden age of Hollywood that cemented its status as an icon of cool.

Suddenly, the trench coat wasn’t just for soldiers. It was for detectives, gangsters, journalists, and mysterious spies. It became cinematic shorthand for a character who was world-weary, sophisticated, and maybe just a little bit dangerous.

Iconic Moments on the Silver Screen

Think of Humphrey Bogart as the cynical Rick Blaine in Casablanca (1942). In that famous final scene at the foggy airport, his belted trench coat is as much a part of his character as his weary expression. It suggests a man with a past, a man who has seen too much.

Then there’s Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961). In the film’s romantic, rain-soaked finale, she wears a simple Burberry trench. It’s a moment that transformed the coat. It was no longer just a masculine symbol of war and grit; it was now chic, elegant, and effortlessly stylish for women, too.

The list of Hollywood stars who donned the trench is endless:

Marlene Dietrich wore one with androgynous flair in the 1930s.
Alain Delon made it look impossibly cool as a hitman in Le Samouraï.
Peter Sellers as the bumbling Inspector Clouseau gave it a comedic twist in the Pink Panther films.

On screen, the trench coat could mean anything. It could be romantic, mysterious, heroic, or even funny. This versatility is the key to its lasting appeal. It’s a blank canvas that the wearer can project their own personality onto. It doesn’t wear you; you wear it.

The Burberry Check: An Accidental Icon

You can’t talk about Burberry without talking about its famous check pattern. That distinctive design of camel, black, red, and white is as famous as the coat itself. But, like so many great ideas, it was almost an accident.

The check pattern, now officially known as the Haymarket Check, was first introduced in the 1920s. It was used solely as a lining for Burberry’s raincoats. For decades, it was a hidden detail, a little secret for the person wearing the coat.

That all changed in 1967. The manager of the Burberry shop in Paris was arranging a window display and decided to turn up the hem of a coat to show off the lining. She then used the check pattern on some luggage and created an umbrella cover to match.

Customers went wild for it.

Suddenly, everyone wanted a piece of the Burberry check. The pattern escaped from the inside of the coat and found its way onto scarves, bags, hats, and everything in between. The Burberry scarf, in particular, became a must-have accessory and a global status symbol.

A Victim of Its Own Success?

For a while, the check became too popular. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, it was widely counterfeited and became associated with “chav” culture in the UK. The brand’s luxury image took a hit as the market was flooded with cheap fakes. It was a classic case of a brand losing control of its own identity.

Burberry had to act fast. Under the creative direction of Christopher Bailey, who joined in 2001, the company made a bold move. They drastically reduced the visibility of the check in their collections, refocusing the brand on its high-fashion credentials and, most importantly, on its heritage.

They reminded the world what Burberry was really about: craftsmanship, innovation, and that iconic trench coat. It was a hugely successful strategy that brought the brand back from the brink and restored its reputation as a global luxury powerhouse.

Made in Castleford: The Craftsmanship Behind the Coat

A genuine Burberry trench coat is not a cheap item. The price reflects the incredible amount of skill and effort that goes into making each one. Today, the classic trench coats are still made in Castleford, a town in Yorkshire, just as they have been for decades.

It takes about three weeks to make a single trench coat, and the process involves over 100 highly skilled steps.

The Secrets of the Stitch

One of the most crucial and difficult steps is stitching the collar. This is what gives the collar its elegant curve, allowing it to sit perfectly on the neck. A specialist machinist stitches the collar with over 180 tiny stitches to create a unique fluidity. It takes a year of training before a machinist is even allowed to work on this one specific detail.

The gabardine fabric is still woven at the Burberry Mill, also in Yorkshire. The process is a closely guarded secret, but it ensures the fabric has the same quality and durability that Thomas Burberry intended over a century ago.

The coat’s proportions are also key to its famous silhouette. The way the shoulders are set, the fall of the storm shield, and the length of the belt are all carefully calculated to create a flattering and timeless look.

Owning a Burberry trench isn’t just buying a piece of clothing; it’s investing in a piece of British craftsmanship. It’s a coat that’s built to last a lifetime and is often passed down through generations.

The Trench Coat Today: A British Icon Reimagined

So, where does the trench coat stand in the 21st century? It’s arguably more relevant than ever. In a world of fast fashion and fleeting trends, the Burberry trench represents something permanent and authentic.

It remains a staple in the wardrobes of the stylish and the powerful. You’ll see it on members of the Royal Family, like the Princess of Wales, on fashion editors at London Fashion Week, and on city workers dashing through the rain.

A Canvas for Creativity

Under a new generation of creative directors, like Riccardo Tisci and now Daniel Lee, the trench coat continues to be reinvented. While the classic Heritage Trench in honey or black remains the cornerstone of the brand, each season brings new interpretations.

We’ve seen it deconstructed, oversized, covered in graffiti, made from leather or silk, and produced in every colour of the rainbow. But no matter how much it’s changed, the fundamental DNA of Thomas Burberry’s original design is always there.

The trench coat has become a canvas for creative expression, proving its ability to adapt and stay relevant for a new generation. It’s a perfect blend of heritage and modernity.

Why the Burberry Trench Endures

So, what is the secret to the trench coat’s incredible staying power? Why does a design that’s over 100 years old still feel so modern?

Functionality: First and foremost, it works. It’s a practical, comfortable, and reliable raincoat. In the unpredictable British weather, that’s something we can all appreciate.
Timeless Design: The clean lines and classic silhouette have never gone out of style. It’s one of the few garments that looks as good today as it did in the 1940s. It transcends trends.
Versatility: It’s the ultimate go-anywhere coat. You can throw it over a suit for a business meeting, wear it with jeans and a jumper at the weekend, or even dress it up over an evening gown. It just works.
Cultural Resonance: The coat is steeped in history. It carries with it the stories of soldiers, explorers, and movie stars. Wearing one feels like you’re connecting with a piece of that legacy.
A Symbol of Britishness: For many people around the world, the Burberry trench coat is British style. It represents a certain understated elegance, a respect for tradition, and a quiet confidence.

It started life as a solution to a problem – how to stay dry in the rain. But it became so much more. It’s a testament to the power of great design, a symbol of resilience, and a true icon of British fashion. The story of the Burberry trench coat is, in many ways, a story of Britain itself: innovative, enduring, and always in style.