Savile Row: Exploring Bespoke British Tailoring

Savile Row, a Mayfair, Central London street, is synonymous with bespoke tailoring and sartorial elegance. The term ‘bespoke’, meaning ‘to be spoken for’, originates in this very locale, where customers spoke for fabrics as they were chosen. The history of Savile Row dates back to the late 18th century, emerging as a fashion hub in the early 19th century, primarily for men’s tailoring.

Discover Savile Row in our Sartorial Guide

What sets Savile Row apart is not just the unparalleled quality of tailoring but the deep-rooted traditions that have been upheld for centuries.

The essence lies in its attention to detail and personal service. Each suit is crafted to fit the individual’s body shape, style preferences, and functional needs, making it a unique piece of art. The tailors here are artisans in their own right, with skills passed down through generations. They represent a blend of time-honoured techniques and contemporary fashion sensibilities.

The cultural impact of Savile Row is profound. It has been the choice of royalty, celebrities, and business tycoons. The influence on global fashion is immeasurable; it has set standards for quality and style that are revered worldwide. It’s not just about clothing; it’s about the heritage, craftsmanship, and legacy each stitch carries.

It’s evolved over the years but has never lost its core: creating bespoke garments that are timeless in their elegance and style. This street is more than a fashion landmark; it’s a testament to the enduring appeal of custom-made clothing and the high standards of British craftsmanship.

Fun Facts & Trivia about Savile Row

Historical Origins: It was built between 1731 and 1735 part of the Burlington Estate. It wasn’t until the late 18th century that tailoring businesses began to establish there.
Royal Connections: Its reputation was solidified when Beau Brummell, a close friend of the Prince Regent (later King George IV), popularized a new style of suit there in the early 19th century.
The Beatles and Apple Corps: The Beatles famously played their last live performance on the rooftop of the Apple Corps building at 3 Savile Row in 1969, a historic moment in music history.
World War Uniforms: During World War II, many Savile Row tailors contributed to the war effort by making military uniforms. A Savile Row tailor also made Winston Churchill’s famous siren suits.
Cultural Impact: It’s been referenced in numerous films, books, and songs, symbolizing the epitome of high-class fashion and style.
The Name: The street was named after Lady Dorothy Savile, the wife of the 3rd Earl of Burlington, the architect who developed the area.
Innovation in Menswear: The first ever dinner jacket, believed to be the precursor to the tuxedo, was made here for Edward VII, then the Prince of Wales.
Diversity in Tailoring: In recent years, it’s seen an increase in female tailors and designers, bringing fresh perspectives to this traditionally male-dominated field.
On Film: Suits made by Savile Row tailors have been featured in numerous films, dressing iconic characters such as James Bond and Kingsman agents.
Global Reach: Despite its quintessentially British roots, it has a global clientele, with tailors frequently travelling to the USA, Europe, and Asia for client fittings.

It’s not just a street; it’s a symbol of sartorial excellence and cultural significance. Its influence stretches far beyond the confines of fashion into the realms of history, culture, and art.

The Process of Savile Row Bespoke Tailoring

The process is an art form, distinguished by its meticulous attention to detail and personalised service. It begins with a consultation, where the tailor and client discuss style, fabric, and fit preferences. This stage is crucial as it sets the tone for the entire garment. The tailor considers the client’s lifestyle, body shape, and even how they move to ensure the suit complements them in every aspect.

Next comes the selection of fabric, which is a pivotal decision in bespoke tailoring. Savile Row offers a vast array of high-quality fabrics from around the world. The choice of material affects not just the look but also the feel and longevity of the suit. Once the fabric is chosen, the tailor takes precise measurements. This is where the magic of bespoke tailoring truly lies – the ability to create a garment that fits like a second skin.

The crafting process is extensive, often involving multiple fittings. The first fitting, known as the ‘baste’ stage, involves a partially constructed suit to adjust the fit. Subsequent fittings refine the suit further, ensuring every aspect is perfect. This process can take several weeks or even months, as it involves significant handwork.

The tailors use techniques honed over centuries, combining them with modern advances where appropriate. The result is a garment that is not just a piece of clothing but a personal statement. The intricate stitching, the hand-sewn linings, and the personalised details make each suit a masterpiece.

The final fitting is where the client sees their vision come to life. The suit, in its completed form, is a testament to the skill and dedication of the tailor. It’s not just about fashion; it’s about creating a legacy piece that can be passed down through generations.

Styles and Trends in Savile Row Tailoring

While steeped in tradition, it’s not immune to the influences of contemporary fashion. The tailors on this iconic street have mastered the art of blending timeless styles with modern trends, ensuring that each piece is classic and relevant.

The traditional Savile Row suit is known for its structured form, with strong shoulders, a nipped-in waist, and a classic British silhouette. This style exudes a sense of authority and sophistication, making it a favorite among business professionals and public figures. The classic three-piece suit, with its matching jacket, trousers, and waistcoat, is a quintessential example of this style.

However, Savile Row has also embraced more contemporary trends over the years. There has been a gradual shift towards softer tailoring, with less padding in the shoulders and a more relaxed fit. This modern style caters to a younger clientele and reflects a more casual approach to formal wear. The use of bold colours and patterns in linings and accessories has also become more common, allowing clients to express their individuality while maintaining the elegance of a bespoke suit.

Savile Row has also seen a resurgence in certain vintage styles. For example, the double-breasted suit, once a staple in men’s wardrobes, has made a significant comeback. Similarly, high-waisted trousers and wide lapels, reminiscent of the 1930s and 1940s, are reinterpreted in modern fabrics and fits.

The adaptability of tailors to incorporate contemporary trends while maintaining the essence of traditional British tailoring keeps it at the forefront of men’s fashion. The ability to evolve with the times while preserving a rich heritage is a hallmark of the true artistry of Savile Row.

Famous Patrons and Influence of Savile Row

Savile Row’s reputation as the pinnacle of bespoke tailoring has attracted a host of famous patrons over the years, each contributing to its legendary status. The clientele of Savile Row reads like a who’s who of historical figures, celebrities, and fashion icons, reflecting the global influence and appeal of this unique tailoring street.

Historically, it has dressed royalty and world leaders, underscoring its status as a symbol of sophistication and power. King Edward VII was among the first notable patrons, setting a trend among the elite. Winston Churchill, known for his sartorial elegance, was also a frequent visitor, favouring the classic British style that Savile Row is renowned for.

Icons like The Beatles, particularly John Lennon and Paul McCartney, turned to Savile Row tailors for their distinctive suits, contributing to the ‘mod’ fashion trend of the 1960s. Hollywood stars, from Cary Grant to Daniel Craig, have donned suits here, showcasing its timeless appeal on the global stage.

The influence extends beyond individual patrons to the broader world of fashion and design. It has set the standard for quality and craftsmanship in men’s tailoring, influencing designers and fashion houses around the world. The techniques and styles developed on this street have been emulated and adapted in various forms, attesting to its enduring impact on the fashion industry.

Moreover, Savile Row has symbolised British culture and craftsmanship, representing a legacy of excellence that transcends fashion trends. Its global influence is a testament to the artistry and skill of the tailors who have made it a byword for the best in bespoke tailoring.

The Future of Savile Row

As we look to the future, Savile Row faces both challenges and opportunities in an ever-evolving fashion landscape. The rise of fast fashion and changes in consumer behaviour pose significant challenges, but Savile Row’s commitment to quality and craftsmanship ensures its continued relevance in the world of high-end fashion.

One of the key challenges is the competition from ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits. These alternatives offer quicker turnaround times and often at lower prices. However, it has maintained its allure by emphasising the unparalleled quality, customisation, and longevity of its bespoke tailoring. The experience of having a suit crafted on Savile Row is about more than just clothing; it’s a luxury experience that cannot be replicated.

Savile Row is also adapting to modern trends and demands. Some tailors have started to incorporate sustainable practices, using eco-friendly fabrics and promoting the longevity and timelessness of their garments. The street is also gradually diversifying its offerings, with some houses designing bespoke womenswear and experimenting with casual styles to cater to a broader audience.

Technology is another area where Savile Row is evolving. While the craftsmanship remains predominantly traditional, some tailors are embracing digital tools for design and communication, enhancing the customer experience without compromising the art of tailoring.

The future of Savile Row also lies in its ability to pass on its rich heritage and skills to the next generation. Apprenticeships and training programs are critical to keeping the traditions and expertise of Savile Row tailoring alive. By nurturing new talent, Savile Row ensures that its legacy of bespoke tailoring continues to thrive.

In conclusion, while the landscape of fashion continues to change, the essence of Savile Row – exceptional craftsmanship, attention to detail, and personalized service – remains its strongest asset. This enduring appeal, combined with a willingness to adapt and innovate, positions Savile Row to continue its legacy as the epitome of bespoke tailoring.

FAQ on Savile Row Tailoring

Q: What exactly is ‘bespoke’ tailoring? A: Bespoke tailoring refers to the process of creating a garment, typically a suit, from scratch based on a customer’s measurements and style preferences. Unlike off-the-rack or made-to-measure, a bespoke suit is entirely custom-made and involves a high degree of handcrafting.

Q: How long does it take to make a bespoke suit on Savile Row? A: The process usually takes several weeks to a few months. It involves multiple fittings and intricate handcrafting. The exact time can vary depending on the tailor’s schedule and the complexity of the suit.

Q: Why are Savile Row suits so expensive? A: The cost reflects the high level of craftsmanship, quality of materials, and the personalized service that goes into making each bespoke suit. These are luxury items, meant to last a lifetime and often become heirlooms.

Q: Can women get tailored suits on Savile Row? A: Yes, while traditionally focused on men’s tailoring, many Savile Row tailors now offer bespoke services for women, crafting suits and other tailored garments.

Q: Is it necessary to visit Savile Row in person for a bespoke suit? A: Ideally, yes. The process involves personal fittings and consultations. However, some tailors may offer remote services or travel for fittings, especially for repeat customers.

Q: How should I care for a Savile Row suit? A: It’s recommended to dry clean sparingly, use a good quality suit hanger, and store it properly to maintain its shape and fabric integrity. Regular brushing and airing can help keep the suit fresh.

Q: Can Savile Row suits be altered? A: Yes, one of the advantages of a bespoke suit is that it can be adjusted over time to accommodate changes in body shape.